Our Vape Engineer and Repair Technician, Dylan,
would like to share the three most common repairs he sees and how he fixes them.
This blog entry serves only as an informational asset. This blog entry is only intended for instructional purposes for professionals capable of completing the mentioned repairs. The author is not responsible for use of this blog entry in any manner outside of an informational asset. Use at your own risk.
After extended use of a device without maintenance, there will likely be loose or missing screws. Most devices require a TORX T5 driver to tighten screws.
All models of mods use different screws, so you would have to determine which screws you need. You can purchase screws for mods at machinery online retailers such as www.mcmaster.com. Almost all mod screws are a T5 head.
Battery Door Failure
There are three main types of battery doors. First and easiest to fix is the magnetic back door (Figure 1).
After extended use of a device without maintenance, magnets can lose their adhesive backing or fall out of their tracks.
If the magnet was recovered, then it will be glued down using cyanoacrylate adhesive.
A trick that I have found is to mark the side of polarity with a Sharpie (Figure 2), this way there is a distinct difference between the two when gluing the magnet down. Doing this avoids mishaps that lead to repeating the entire process.
If the magnet was lost, spare magnets may be ordered from an online retailer.
The second type of door is the drop door (Figure 3).
These doors use friction to stay shut and utilize a swing gate motion for ease of use. The problem with devices that use this option is that they will inevitably break down from said friction.
Most companies use aluminum for device parts which is great for cost and weight, not so much for extended durability.
To fix these doors, replace the worn pieces for new ones. The only way to fix this issue now is to trade the piece with a working donor part.
Using whatever driver necessary, take the device apart to the point of being able to remove the broken piece.
Replace the broken piece with the working one and put the device together. For this, do the opposite of what you did to take it apart. The last step is to check the device for functionality.
The last popular door is like the drop door, but it uses a latch or button for extra security (Figure 4).
Repair of this door is also like the repair for the drop door.
Find the broken part, replace it with a donor piece, and put everything back together. For this, do the opposite of what you did to take it apart.
After any of these repairs, check the device for functionality.
510 Cover-Plate Falls Out
This is the easiest issue to spot. If the tank is attached to the device but is spinning freely instead of threading, the 510-plate has loosened (Figure 5).
The silver disk located on the top of the device is the 510-plate. This plate transfers the current to the coil and allows the unit to complete the circuit. Most companies press the bottom side down of the plate with a brass ring for a friction fit (Figure 6).
Those who are gentle with their devices will, most likely, not find a problem with this. However, if the user is rough on their device, there is a chance that the brass ring will loosen after a fall or over time. In order to fix this, you must first remove the tank if one is present.
Sometimes with enough elbow grease and will power, you can just pull the tank off with the 510-plate attached (Figure 7).
If that is not successful, take the device apart completely and put the 510-plate between a set of needle nose pliers (Figure 8).
Apply pressure and then unscrew the tank.
If the 510-plate is still attached, remove it using either a flathead screwdriver pushing up on the brass ring (Figure 9) or a bar clamp with a 5/16th socket and a Phillips head screwdriver bit (Figure 10).
Now that the plate is free, use a flathead screwdriver to score both surfaces that mate and clean them with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs (Figure 11).
Mix an equal amount of marine grade epoxy and hardener, then spread an even layer on both scored surfaces.
Insert the plate back into the top of the device and press the ring back on using two pairs of slip-joint pliers (Figure12).
Then, clean off any runout epoxy and set the device aside to try for at least 24 hours. Once the epoxy is fully cured, put everything back together. For this, do the opposite of what you did to take it apart. The last step is to check the device for functionality.